After a full day and a half of game drives, mostly chasing big cats, we decide to meander, slowly, from the Manyane Gate to exit the Bakubung Gate. Enroute we see elephants. Rhinos. Impalas. Zebras. We see many birds. Burchell’s Coucal. Swainson’s Spurfowl. Helmeted Guinea Fowl. Cape Turtle Dove. Red Finch. Southern Masked Weaver. Lilac Breasted Roller. Go Away Bird. Little Bee Eater. Grey Hornbill. Crested Francolin. Blacksmith Lapwing. Yellow-billed Hornbill. We drive on.
We learn that a leopard emerged, close to the Pilanesberg Centre. After seeing Motsamai and her son Mogake yesterday, we move on, happily leaving the huge traffic. The Park’s leopards are named by those who identify them as part of the exciting Leopard Project started by guide and wild life photographer Heinrich Neumeyer in 2015. His ability to garner citizen support using social media enabled the Park to have a full history of leopards. He guided us the previous day with his extensive knowledge, high energy and passion about leopards which was exhilarating. Anneke Preto, a talented photographer who joined our game drive, kindly shared some stunning pics (see her Picture Gallery at the end of this post).
Hamerkop
We stop for coffee, always a treat mid-morning. We drive on, occasionally chatting to people in other vehicles. Most are not having luck with cats, their goal. One cross vehicle conversation lead us to a stunning view of a Hammerkop perched on a tree framed by green foliage. We drive on. Our goal is to get to the Lengau Dam close to the Bakubung Gate to revel in silence. We reach. Find a good vantage point. Switch-off. Silence.
Hippo in Lengau Dam
Rhythmic silence. The flapping wings of a sacred ibis launching into the air. The snort and splash of nearby hippos. The unmistakable singing of the monotonous lark ‘corrr-weeoooo‘. The monotonous call of the cape turtle dove ‘kuk-cooorrrr-uk‘. The chirping of tens of other indistinguishable birds. The rustling of the nearby rat tail drop seed grasses. And, of course, the odd buzzing of non-irritant flies. Until, the irritating droning engines drive in to see what we are seeing. I close my eyes. We each have succumbed to silence, mostly. Thought and reflection, the occasional comment, sigh or gasp. But, we are listening more, breathing in the beautiful air, smelling the freshness. Savouring these moments, storing them across all senses, to last until we return again. Another engine starts. Leaves. Another drives in. It is a busy spot, off the main road. Easy for many looking for game, late morning, when cats are scarce. Cars leave, we are alone. Silence.
Lengau Dam Shore
Rhythmic silence. Egyptian geese migrate from one end, waddling across the dam en masse. We watch them closely, especially when they pass the hippos. Uneventful. Crunch. Fruits and nuts are devoured for elevenses. Vrooooom. Another car. Hippos snort some more. An airplane passes, its engine drowning other sounds. More indistinguishable birds chirp, closer, louder. We are much too lethargic to even try and identify them. Another car. I scan the surrounding hilltops using my binoculars. Nothing, but so much. Trees. Shrubs. Grasses. Rock. I sense movement but see none. Silence.
Pied Kingfisher
Rhythmic Silence. Suddenly a pied kingfisher hovers, meters away and above our car, closer to the dam. Cameras click. It disappears. Then, a dark capped bulbul lands on the top of a nearby tree. The reed cormorants sitting on a dry tree in the dam shake water off after another fishing expedition. The remaining Egyption Geese and Sacred Ibis joined by Blacksmith Lapwings continue feeding on the shore. A hippo surfaces and slowly sinks. What excitement!
Egyptian Geese, Sacred Ibis and Blacksmith Lapwings
I read this piece aloud. We sigh, feeling a oneness. Senses alert and filled.
Rain drops start falling, first slowly, then rapidly. Visibility drops, light pitter patter on our car roof gets louder. We close our windows, contemplate lunch. We head to exit the Park. Cups filled. Energised. Stomachs grumbling.
PICTURE GALLERY
ANNEKE PRETO’S PICTURE GALLERY
Oh Fazel, I always love reading “Exactlyredefined”, your writing transports me into your awesome experiences, making me feel I was right there with you, can’t wait to experience your next adventure 👏🏼👏🏼👌🏼
Class
Beautiful Fazel!!!
Beautiful piece transporting us into your meditation on silence. A prized and hard to find amenity in our world filled with incessant sound, the drone of traffic and the constant footfall of the rat race.
Captivating visuals and silence. (But darn that traffic! ) You’ve transported us there with your beautiful prose. That has bathed us readers in nature. Like Louis would say: condemned us to happiness!
Beautifully written 💕 i felt like I was part of this experience
How awesome my brother. The pictures are extraordinary. I am in awe. Actually did not even realise that the area was so beautiful. Have not been there. But after this I am going to make it a point to get there.
A beautiful piece! And a timely reminder. I’ve been wanting to read this book: The World of Silence, by Max Picard. Perhaps we can start it together in April. Much love.