Driving down to Hogsback in the Eastern Cape for our Covid-19 delayed Amatola hike was delightfully pleasant even the last 48km of gravel. We needed the out. It was great meeting the group especially the Everest Base Camp veterans. We were briefed by Dan Cornick, coordinator of the hike and owner of Away with the Fairies, our stay for the first and last night. We each had loads of questions as he used coloured pens to scribble on the large map – water points, routes, huts, inclines, waterfalls, streams, escape routes etc.

Tea Party

We spent the evening catching up over Karak tea and delicious rusks while nearby the boma crackled with heated anticipation. We felt like Hobbits and Dwarfs readying ourselves for the big journey ahead. Our Gimli room was in the Strider section of the forest, a short drive from the communal area. Lights went out early so we postponed prep to the morning.

Earlier in the day, those that arrived early had time to explore the Away With The Fairies complex and some found a picturesque setting to bathe which many would have preferred at the end of each day’s hike.

An early rise with pressure to pack and sort, had us scurrying about before loading the jeep to meet the others for breakfast. An 8am start gave us sufficient time to pause and enjoy breakfast. Future Life with fruit and yoghurt did the trick for me while the others tucked into scrambled eggs mushrooms and toast almost like they will never see such delicious food for a long time.

 

We loaded our backpacks and our nervous selves into the big truck to be dropped off at Maden Dam, a two hour journey to the start of the hike. It was bumpy and after some pictures and banter, we each were left with our own thoughts, occasionally picking up conversations.

Digital Detox

I switched my phone to airplane mode starting my battery conservation and, importantly, my digital detox. I decided that I will only use my phone to write and use my camera. If necessary, an emergency call. As a backup I carried a pad and pen to write which I did not need. My small solar charger, sun permitting, ably powered my watch while my power bank would give me at least three charges. I ended up using only 25% of my battery pack. It turned out that airplane mode using my camera with some writing consumed so little power. I enjoyed not reading any messages, emails or checking news. It was liberating. I should do this more often.

The bumpy ride and screaming engine lulled many to doze. The forests, hills and little villages quickly flew by. The clear sky was being directed by the sun. September is still dry and I could only imagine the muddiness with incessant rains. The houses were distant from each other with many containing double garages and multiple rooms. A few contained adjoining zinc shacks. I saw no mud huts but did see several round or octagonal homes. I saw a quaint school nestled in the mountainous setting. We spent time identifying some trees and birds. The choral tree with its dazzling orange flowers stood out.

Dan dropped us off at Maden Dam, renowned also for its feisty trout fish, to start our 106km hike. After some pictures and last minute checking of straps, we entered the forest.

The red-billed hornbill flew from tree to tree as if welcoming us to its abode. The company of Hobbits, Dwarfs, Elves and Wizards, trudged on, uncertain of the evil forces we were bound to encounter. We started with a decent pace, averaging 3kms per hour as the group disintegrated into smaller sub group. Two fast ones ahead several in the middle and one bringing up the rear. At some point you are pretty much alone with your own thoughts. One of the many reasons I enjoy hiking. Reflecting. Thinking. Dreaming. Zoning out.

Mythology

When I first signed up for the hike almost three years back, I was excited to visit a place that had inspired JR Tolkien’s Hobbit and Lord of the Rings. Tolkien was born in Bloemfontein leaving for England when he was three. Legend has it that his nanny came from the Amatola region and filled young Tolkien’s mind with stories of the area including the violent tornado which locals referred to as the dragon. Smaug?.

Apparently Tolkien’s son was stationed in Hogsback for a period and may have written or related his knowledge, description, and experience of the forest to his father. Nonetheless and of critical importance, the forest resides in each reader’s imagination and forests the world over are magical and have loads of mysteries. So, as Hobbits, Dwarfs, Elves and Wizards we walked more than half the 6 days entirely in the forest and in our imagination were heading to Mordor. We each had to fight our own demons, and there were many, each day and night.

We stopped around the 7km mark to have lunch, rest and fill up water as there was no drinkable water until 2km into the next day’s hike. It was a welcome relief. We drank loads of water like camels do and filled up our water bladders and bottles.

We continued climbing briskly as the gradient increased and sweat poured. Our bags were slightly heavier as we maxed on water. Day 1 was just one big incline, a 750 meter elevation.

Before long we came to our hut, tired and with aching bodies. After a refreshing shower, I washed and hung my clothes to dry. I chatted to various people as we all glowed from a successful day one. The GwiliGwili Hut is nestled high on top of the mountain and from the deck above the hut, there are some magnificent views. Dinner was an easy bagel affair. The temperature dropped as we layered to keep warm. Hot tea helped. Around 7:30pm we each headed to our beds.

 

We awoke around 5am readying ourselves to leave around 6am. This to give us enough time to enjoy the day and reach early enough to recover for the next day. Efficiently unpacking and repacking is a critical hiking skill requiring good organizational skills and packing sense. There is always much one can learn from others but also from one’s own experience. Reflection.

H2O

Dan’s approximate distances are just that, an approximate. It resulted in us not filling up at the 1.3km mark thinking that 2km mark he referred to would be better. It never came so at the 2.5km mark some of us decided to turn around to fill our water bladders and bottles. This added an additional 2.4km (~ one hour) for the day. Importantly, we had sufficient water and later learnt how some of the others had struggled and desperately needed to find water later on the hike.

Food appreciation and its simplicity somehow is magical. We stopped for lunch, leaning against some pine trees, and devoured some Provita and cream cheese. We wondered why we do not regularly partake of such simplicity. Hiking asks tough questions of you and your lifestyle.

In my reading, I came across a Xhosa leader Sandile, a thorn in the side of the British. A skillful leader who successfully mounted victories against the British. He fled to a cave in the Amatola mountains where he was killed by the Fengu tribe who were allies to the British. I could not find the cave nor his grave which is apparently side by side with some British soldiers.

We reached our hut early, finding the single shower a gymnastic challenge. The toilets were decent but a small walk away from the hut. Our very own ring (key) bearer, always reached the hut early and powered the donkey providing us warm showers for some of the days.

Weight = Force Acting on an Object Due to Gravity

By day 3, your backpack and you become indelibly one. It almost feels peculiar without your backpack. As usual, I read various Amatola articles I could find as well as one of my old outdated hiking book. The long distances and high elevation inspired our training especially with loaded backpacks. This prepared us to endure more than what we had foreseen. It also gave us the requisite mental strength to sometimes just power through. It is inspiring how the youngsters just motor on with little training, no experience and less prep. We were there once – the idealism and immortality of youth.

I knew that a lighter backpack would make a huge difference so invested more time in listing and weighing every item. This was invaluable, not just as a checklist but as mental preparation for what we needed to take and especially what to leave out. Thankfully, we were allowed drop-offs on day 2 and day 5 which did help. My old backpack and sleeping bag carried more weight than some of the newer products on the market so I had to be discerning about the items to include. Feel free to download the non-food list and food list and total weighting.

Fatigue and Concentration

Dan encouraged us to follow the lower loop through Rivendell if we reached the fork by 2pm. Arriving later, the shorter middle route through Mordor must be taken. Rivendell is Tolkien’s homely place of sanctuary and a magical Elvish otherworld while Mordor is the home of evil forces lead by Sauron bent on taking over the world. Dan mentioned that the Mordor route was a fitting burnt landscape.

We moved at a good pace taking the lower but tougher route. It required much climbing, some of it challenging. We were rewarded passing waterfall after waterfall. Majestic. We were really enjoying the day’s hike and it was indeed a safe sanctuary.

As we reached the 17km mark, we lost concentration meandering down a path towards the crested eagles nest. We realized our mistake more than a km away. After confirming with Dan, we were about to turnaround, when we noticed a large puff adder a foot away. We stamped our hiking sticks on the ground while it slithered away. Shaken, we raced back, losing much energy and composure. We re-joined the track and began the last brutal climb to the hut. With energies sapped, it was sheer torture. Large boulders required upper body strength with requisite agility so late in the day. We slowly made progress wondering if the hut would ever arrive. It was the one point when you felt like flinging your backpack down the mountain and swearing never to hike again.

 

That evening after dinner, we had time to look at the stars and planets. Venus, Mars and Jupiter glowed radiantly. This is another reason why I enjoy such remote hikes where even the galaxies are visible. The sky just glittered with millions of stars, planets and galaxies each with its own history and mystery like the forests.

Day 4 started with a steady climb from the hut which one could always see from various vantage points. We reminded ourselves to pay attention to the yellow footprint markers on rocks and trees as well as the direction of the occasional yellow arrow.

It was the first time we were fully in the punishing sun. As we reached the highest peak, the wind was powerful and relentless. Many times I found myself losing my footing requiring small steps and sure footedness. We found a boulder providing a short wind-free respite allowing some much needed refreshments. Reflection.

Refreshments

In true Hobbit style, we started our days with a hearty bowl of oats and then stopping for second breakfast around 9am where we tucked into some “Tuc”, and closed with a naartjie. Then elevenses (energy bar and nuts) to take us to lunch which we usually had around 1:30. Samwise (Frodo’s trusted friend and a Hobbit culinary expert) would have been proud.

The views were breath taking from the highest peak and some of the rock faces brought a striking resemblance to Tolkien’s picturesque descriptions.

It was not hard to notice little yellow and white flowers on the montane grassland standing tall and strong against such strong winds.

The only way to escape the relentless wind was to race over Geju Peak and descend. We kept a close watch on the yellow foot signs not wanting to wander off or accidentally head over the cliff. We soon needed to cross a river of huge boulders. Thankfully, we had trained in the Tugela gorge and the boulder training stood us in good stead. It was easy to lose one’s footing and come crashing down but using hiking poles and balance, we were soon over the river of rocks. It looked like debri from a boulder fight between Sauron’s monsters and the Company. We could not work out its origin, noting it as possibly debri from a meteorite. A little lower down we needed to cross over again.

Soon we were climbing again using narrow pathways with very steep banks. The terrain was at times clay and sometime pine needles. In either case we shuddered thinking how treacherous it would be during the rainy season. We walked slowly ensuring solid footing, reminding each other to tighten our core. The descent was trickier as one could see the valley below which contained beautiful streams and waterfalls. One had to stop to view as walking and viewing was dangerous. This section required immense energy sapping concentration.

We reached the bottom wet with sweat and stopped at the first stream crossing to refresh, dip our feet and have lunch. This was a just reward for the hard work. The gurgling stream and beautiful forest again brought Rivendell to mind. We always ensured that our stops were never too long. There was still much to cover and our muscles should not cool down too much.

We crossed stream after stream counting at least ten. We had read the warning that if it rains more than 100mm the day before, these streams would be impassable and the exit route would need to be taken. The streams looked calm and inviting as we easily boulder hopped across. We reached our hut invigorated after a long and solid hike. After a lukewarm shower, it was time to prepare dinner- soup as a starter with Spanish rice and tuna as the main. With no communal eating facility, we brought out a spare wooden bed to aid food preparation and seating.  Earlier the strong winds had given me the feel that rain was on its way. As we looked at the night sky, we could see the gathering of clouds.

The heavens opened overnight and we were met with a very wet morning. Reflection.

Clothes

There are many decisions a hiker must make. With weight being the key constraint, minimising on clothes and taking lighter clothes is always preferable. In this vain, I had first decided on a poncho which is lighter than a rain jacket, pants and backpack cover. At the eleventh hour, I decided on the latter, opting to invest in a higher quality rain jacket and pants. This was an excellent decision for a long hike where it is bound to rain on any one day. Hiking with wet clothes or socks can be cold, miserable and blister inviting. It turned out to be a wonderful day of hiking with our clothes and socks fully dry. The age old adage came to mind, “it never rains on the hike, you are just poorly dressed”.

The hike started with a climb up the mountain, literally walking on clouds. It was stunningly beautiful after which we had to navigate wet slippery boulders on our way down. In many places it was muddy which made a proper hiking boot with hiking pole(s) an absolute necessity. Despite this, I slipped several times and fell at least once always landing on my backpack. My poor shins took a beating but nothing serious, just a few scrapes. It would have been worse without proper gear.

Walking on or through clouds was a majestic experience. You are transported to a different level, enjoying the moment. Occasionally, we came across cows and calves (translation of “Amatola” ) bemused on whether we looked silly or were just silly being up there.

Soon enough we descended, coming across waterfalls and swimming pools. The pathways were narrow requiring further concentration. I made a mental note to consider doing day 5 and 6 again in weather allowing us to swim.  Interestingly, we came across a huge mountain which at first looked like a rock. As we got closer, and climbed across it, it seemed like hardened lava from a volcano. It was a beautiful sight and in many cases water ran off these ‘mountains’ creating beautiful but slippery waterfalls with grass and moss growing too. We reached the hut tired but energised by our sights from the day.

 

It was a cold shower and I was told that the toilet was a no go area. Luckily, Away With The Fairies is able to deliver warm food on Day 5 as part of the drop-off. Many of us ordered their famous pizzas which was a delightful change and heartily devoured. By 7:30pm we all were in bed as the temperature plummeted.

Dan advised us not to climb the mountain on the last day given the narrow slippery pathways. We had a few options. Some  planned to walk on the lower part of the mountain through the muddy pine plantations while others were keen on the shortest route back to Away With The Fairies. There was also an option to complete the 4-km Amatola Plus at the end of the hike to view the Madonna & Child waterfall and the biggest tree in Africa. Most did this while Frodo, our fittest and bravest, completed the original route (by mistake as he had planned to do the pine plantation route). He shared some of his pictures which showed the clouds being much lower than the mountain peak. He ended up doing almost 26km on the day arriving long after we were showered, warmly dressed and huddled by the fireplace.

The energy was palpable as we caught up on memorable and funny moments. Each was glowing with having successfully completed such an obstacle laden hike. It was the first night we could just immerse ourselves in each other’s company without needing to worry about getting ready for the next day. We played some charades and 30 seconds before the youngsters braaied some meat for dinner. For the first time, we all ate together and continued chatting long after dinner.

Tough, Tougher, Toughest

I am not sure who decided that this was the toughest hiking trail in South Africa. To state that it is the toughest one must have done all hikes and pre-agreed on the criteria. It is certainly the toughest challenge I have done (compared to the hiking and cycling I’ve done) and here’s why :

• Duration. 6-days which is longer than most hikes
• Distance. Over 100km with 16km average per day.
• Elevation. 4500m with some days just one big climb.
• Weight. Carrying almost 20% of your body weight on your back each day for 6-8 hours.
• Incline. Some very steep inclines and declines requiring upper body and core strength
• Boulders. Large boulders strewn across steep inclines and declines. Slippery when wet requiring some technical dexterity.
• Path. Many narrow and slippery cliff edge pathways needing immense concentration.
• Signs. The trail was well signed but tiredness, fatigue and/or lack of concentration results in most of us getting lost a few times each day. We did once walk an extra km to/from the correct sign post resulting in unnecessary stress and fatigue making the ensuing last climb of the day triply hard.
• Wind. Incessant brutal wind on day 4 climbing Geju peak.
• Sun. Day 4 also had punishing sun.
• Rain. Day 5 and 6 were either in clouds or under downpour which can be uncomfortable for those not adequately dressed. Critically, paths are muddy and slippery.
• Cold. Rain brought temperature down especially at night and early morning.
• Ablution. Few to some being unusable.

Curiosity and Beauty

But, the key reason I enjoy hiking is to feed my growing curiosity about nature and the abundant beauty. I compiled an Amatola Fauna and Flora List from my reading and research as I could not find an official list. Hopefully, some experts can build on this list.

I recorded more than 20 unique bird sounds, photographed more than 10 animal droppings and as many trees, insects, flowers and plants. I also captured some geological formations. I will be spending the next few weekends identifying and clarifying them with fellow nature enthusiasts.

Conclusion

Hiking requires enormous reservoirs of resilience, tenacity, enthusiasm and positivity – elements of mental strength. There are times when you want to just sit down and cry when you feel the odds are stacked against you. You need to be hungry for inspiration which you will always find in truck loads from your fellow hikers if not from the environment. I did not hike with more than half this group before but I will go to war with them. Each bringing something you can learn from or be inspired by. Some had never carried a backpack for a multi-day hike, arriving long after everyone but powered through, remaining positive and getting strong after each day. Some just wore permanent smiles no matter the obstacle. Some showed ingenuity in tackling obstacles. Some sat down cried without anyone knowing, lifted themselves and soldiered on. Some were just solid, almost like they were walking through a park on a Sunday afternoon.

Frodo, Strider, Gandalf, Samwise, Arwen, Eowyn, Galadriel, Dwalin, Balin, Kili, Fili, Dori, Nori, Oin, Gloin, Bifur, Bofur and Thorin all successfully faced and overcame their demons. Congratulations.