Wake up legs. After a sumptuous breakfast we cycled into the dense Jeffrey’s Bay fog climbing up Noorseclimb. Our first 5km contained some sections at 15% gradient which woke our legs up. Jollity was in the air as we came out of Jeffrey’s Bay and within minutes the sky opened and the familiar blue teased our presence. The fog remained down below in Jeffrey’s Bay. Temperatures soared while the peloton picked up speed. We so needed this escape.
Jeffrey’s Bay to Nature’s Valley
We arrived the day before partaking in some traditional seafood extravaganza. I was pleasantly surprised to bump into my fishing friends who were returning after a wonderful few days of fishing in Port Alfred. I’m going to be struck off the list soon as I’m choosing the wrong Shimano gear. It was going to be too much to add fishing to this trip so I will need to plan better.
As we entered Humansdorp after climbing out of Jeffrey’s Bay we could not but notice men patiently waiting for some or other bakkie to pick them up for work. How do we solve unemployment or rather how do we engage more people in the economy. We rode on with our contradictions, becoming comfortable with the familiar plaguing most towns. This land.
The vista soon opened with farmlands interspersed with wind turbine farms. I must have counted 30 wind turbines in one area and we came across at least 5 areas. One wind turbine can apparently power 3000 houses for a fixed cost over a 20 year period. Amazing where the mind wanders when you cycle. The sun was piercing, wasting much needed renewable energy which the country needs. My land.
On farmlands, workers went about working the field or on some other task. It just appears that things work despite us, despite those that have the power to enact real change. I lifted my head and noticed the unmistakable forked tail drongo sitting on the powerlines. Soon all clouds disappeared and the temperature escalated. Your land.
The R102 is a delightful quiet road with the beautiful fynbos guarding the farmlands. The landscape was rich in greenery. I soon noticed the first of several blue cranes and then a troupe of pied crows flying in no particular direction. I identified with the laggard who must have been chiding the rest. I quickly had to increase my cadence to keep up with the peloton. This land is your land.
The Kouga Mountain range came into view and I wondered if it offered hiking trails. Herds of cows and flocks of sheep grazed unperturbed by the whirring peloton. The familiar cattle egrets went about their work. In many parts the fynbos jutted out covering the yellow section of the road and many times part of the lane too. Sand did the trick in other parts. While the road condition was pretty good, it did not escape us that soon we will be doing ‘small treks’ given the limited budget or inaction of transport authorities. This land is my land.
This land was made for you and me
As I went cycling on that ribbon of highway
I saw above me that endless skyway
And saw below me that golden valley
This land was made for you and me
– Woodie Guthrie (adapted)
We were exhausted as we reached Storms River for a much needed rest and lunch.
The last section was quick and fast as we averaged 37km per hour reaching Natures Valley for a customary swim. The water was cool, inviting and refreshing. We rode 140kms ascending over 1000 meters. We packed our bikes and reached Brenton on Sea in time to savor the mesmerizing west coast sunset.
Brenton On Sea to George
Cycling mornings are always rushed affairs with toilet timing the most stressful. Dressing up, making drinks, packing bags, having breakfast, loading bags and sorting out bikes are some of the routine stuff. It was a blistering hot morning as we left Brenton on Sea climbing almost 200m in the first 4 kms with an average 10% gradient. We were rewarded with beautiful views of Brenton on Sea and Buffels Bay on our left and the Knysna Lagoon on our right. After a steep descent, it was back to climbing the N2 section. This land.
As we entered Sedgefield we picked up the pungent smell of sea weed and kelp from the surrounding vleis – Swartvlei and Groenvlei Lakes. We were dripping wet as our muscles toiled and the temperature soared. The rolling hills tested our resolve. As we descended into Wilderness the penetrating sea breeze engulfed our olfactory receptors. We stopped for a well-deserved second breakfast, hobbit style. My land.
Immediately on restarting, our ride meandered through the mountainous back road out of Wilderness avoiding the busy national road. We were ‘rewarded’ with one of the steepest climbs in the country with 18% gradient at some points. We passed the Eye of Africa, view point and launchpad for those paragliding. I remembered climbing this same route many times during my holiday but it was never this steep. We came to a valley and I recalled always stopping to have my energy bar and watch the water flow downstream. This time there was no stopping, I had to catch up the others. Your land.
I roamed and rambled and I followed my tracks
To the sparkling sands of her diamond deserts
And all around me, a voice was sounding
This land was made for you and me
– Woodie Guthrie (adapted)
The abundance of trees and general foliage made the ride magical. I strained to listen to each bird sound hoping to at least glimpse the beautiful Knysna Lourie. Sweat was pouring with my clothes soaking wet. I found some reserve energy and motored on strongly up the remaining section of the climb. Before long we were in George and regrouped with the others, some with severe mechanical issues which limited them scaling the mounting. They were understandably disappointed but the local cycle shop came to the rescue. We loaded our bikes and travelled the long distance from George to Swellendam enjoying each other’s company.
Swellendam to Kleinmond
After a wonderful evening in Swellendam, we drove a short distance to avoid the busy road and started our murderous ride 50kms outside Bredesdorp. It was a beautiful cloudy and cool morning juxtaposed against the dry farmlands waiting for the rainy winter respite. The wind turbines had stopped almost in honor of those whose lives were lost. There was a stiff breeze as the peloton, first slowly and then rapidly increasing its speed. One had to virtually cling on to dear life. It was painfully exhilarating as we climbed one hill and careered down another, mile after mile. We were exhausted as we entered a rather bustling Bredesdorp city center. My land.
After some much needed refreshments, we headed on, first through Napier then towards Caledon before turning south to Stanford. Rolling hills do little justice to the massive climbs and exhilarating descends. Every rider was gunning to win some segment or the other. In some sections you were in complete rhythm while in others you were in absolute pain. The final race into Stanford made one forget all the pain as your heart pounded to reach its max. Your land.
When the sun comes shining, then I was cycling
In wheat fields waving and dust clouds rolling
The voice come chanting as the fog was lifting
This land was made for you and me
– Woodie Guthrie (adapted)
Within minutes everyone arrived, tired but elated to have accomplished another solid ride. We guzzled some recovery drinks, loaded our bikes and drove to our accommodation near Kleinmond. After some well-deserved massages and dinner the group meandered to the coffee area for further carbo-loading and more banter. The essence of tours.
Kleinmond to Strand
Another cloudy but slightly breezy morning greeted us. After an easy breakfast and rather long prep time we cycled towards Kleinmond. My legs were heavy and my heart rate refused to rise. It was going to be a zone 1-3 ride and it took me a while to get into rhythm. The others motored on while Isco and I took in the mountains on our right, the sea on our left and the sea breeze in our faces. Heavenly. We picked up our pace as we passed Betty’s Bay and Hangklip. This route has a fantastic shoulder and we occasionally came across other cyclists. This land.
Houses peppered the mountain and sea side in an idyllic setting. I made a mental note to holiday here sometime just to read and write. We rode on, enjoying the silence and the views. Occasionally, we heard a sea gull cry. We were in rhythm and I was enjoying my present to myself. 56 on the nose and still able to tour. My mind drifted in memory of my folks who both are not around for my first birthday ever. Surreal. My land.
As we came to the mountain pass section, the views were stunning. The mist hung in the distance as the sun wormed its way through the clouds. Time sort of stood still even though we were averaging 27km/hr. As we rode on climbing one section descending another, we were caught up in a dreamlike zone. We were high above looking down on ourselves. We passed Gordon’s Bay heading into Strand at a phenomenal speed coming to a stop at the local Cafe Vida to wait for the others. They had stopped at Kleinmond to take pictures and we had inadvertently passed them. Your land.
This land is your land and this land is my land
From Jeffrey’s Bay to the Strand
From Tsitsikamma Forest, to the cold Atlantic waters
This land was made for you and me
– Woodie Guthrie (adapted)
Butcher’s Wife was the place in Athlone were we settled for lunch before the team dropped me off at the airport. It will go down as one of our most enjoyable and memorable tour thanks to all that made it happen, everyone. The scenery, accommodation, food, logistics, banter but especially the riding was top class.
Very well written . It would have been interesting if you covered some of the “banter”. It always gives perspective to what the other riders are experiencing. But that being said. It makes me want to ride again.
Thanks Deepak. Think I need you to join our next trip to not only capture the banter but to also keep it going faster than the speed of the bike:)