Phakding (2626m) to Namche Bazaar (3370m)
The rhythm started – washup, change, pack up, breakfast, stretch and go. And, hopefully some writing too – battery and connectivity permitting. Day 1 was a smorgasbord of helter skelter rushing and running. But, that’s behind us. In the first few minutes of the hike the banner, courtesy of Bokkie, our group leader, who’s determined to take it to the top, would come out for a group pic. I’ve heard we’ve so far raised almost R80k for a worthy cause – school shoes for learners especially in rural areas.
The rhythm started – it does not take too long for mountain and human to become one. Travelling almost addresses most human conditions (for the bourgeois obviously). Human – porter, trekker, guide and locals together with donkey and yak become fused into one line of movement. One path, two directions. Rhythm.
The rhythm has started – today’s trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar entails 800m of climbing. The pathway of stones, mud, yak and donkey poo merge to become one with human. It together with the rushing streams, cool breeze and streaming sunlight makes for a perfect day. Beats any good day in the office.
The rhythm started – my writing voice has been found as surely as smell sight and sound. The mountain called and Mohamed came. My soul is being fed.
We walked through the narrow pathway clicking our cameras and absorbing everything so that it becomes etched in our memory. We walk alongside Thamserku, a peak of 6500m, snow capped with radiant steep slopes. The beautiful morning sunlight gives it rather than the valley we walking first dibs. The pathway is busy as groups of trekkers pass by while others return after summiting. We pass through quaint villages with inviting tea houses lured by ginger lemon honey tea. A must to rejuvenate our tiring bodies.
After a simple and delicious lunch of egg fried rice and dhal bhat with a flask full of customary ginger lemon honey tea, we put on our back packs and in the scorching midday sun head for the second part of today’s trek. Let the climb continue.
The stream was roaring down below as we crossed another bridge which one never gets used to. It sways as donkey and human walk all 50 – 100m of it.
After crossing and climbing a steep section, I was dutifully baptized. A slow trekker about 5 ahead temporary halted causing a donkey to rush in from behind knocking me down. She also chose valley side and I was thinking of taking out my cell for a pic while waiting. Luckily I managed to break my fall by placing one pole into the ground while my other hand and pole hit the ground. Mud and poo and me were now truly one.
After another downhill followed by a short steep climb, Rolwhali Peak approx. 6300m high majestically loomed above the rhododendron forest. It means “rolling snow” and I made a note to check it out.
The group has a pattern with the strong guys pushing on, groups / individuals in the middle with those enjoying the views and taking pics bringing up the rear. A guide in front and two at the back complete our group. The ten porters each carrying 20kg usually motor ahead.
The trek grew tougher as the afternoon wore on with many tired legs and sore bodies waiting for an opportunity to rest. We crossed the 3000m mark and altitude started making its impact too. The highest most of us have ever climbed.
As we neared our destination Kongde Peak roughly 6100m came into view making all the toil so special. We finally made it to Namche Bazaar. Today we hiked for 8 hours 34 minutes climbing 1082m with a distance of 13km. We going to sleep well tonight :). Feel free to follow me on Strava to track our route.
