Just after midnight 19 of us and 2 guides loaded our duffel and back packs and climbed into two combis for a 5-hour drive to Manthali to catch our flight to Lukla so that we can hike to Phakding. It was a helter skelter Sunday prior to departing as we had a morning tour, completed last minute shopping, pre-tour induction and packed unpacked packed repeat our luggage to stay within 15kgs. None of us got much sleep.
The drive to Manthali will go down as the worst journey in history that any human can endure. In the early morning darkness, the driver careened through towns and then mountains flinging us from one side of our seat to the other. In the darkness we could not tell where we were going, sometimes up sometimes down, curve to right and curve to left. Sleep was impossible while nausea was imminent. We had to stop on the side of the road at one point for a passenger to retch. We dreaded the return journey without even starting our hike.
We reached the Manthali airport within 4 hours, disheveled with our hearts in our fellow passengers pockets. It was dark and cold. It had a rudimentary open corrugated structure for passengers where they could await their flight. We all rushed to find a toilet which was our first taste of what was to come. Dark dingy and pungent.
The rain made its appearance and we quickly found some space under the tin roof. Flights normally get canceled and if so we would have had to stay/camp in this place. Not a good option. A small cafe provided masala tea while we nibbled on the breakfast the hotel provided.
Within minutes we were rushed to weigh our luggage. Confusion reigned as other tour operators and their clients drove in. Luggage was then moved to the drop off area after which we and other passengers rushed to the turnstiles jostling to get through. Shew.
On the other side was some turf where passengers waited. Breathe. Out came cameras. On the tarmac were six 16-seater airplanes ready for take-off. Cameras clicked as we boarded the plane while our nervousness increased. The plane took off easily but midway, at about 3500m, the plane confronted some turbulence. It felt like the plane had insufficient power to overcome the resistance. The pilot hovered through a few different angles until he found a way to break through. Landing at the infamous Lukla Airport, however, was a doddle.
Lukla was much colder than Kathmandu or Manthali. We waited at a restaurant for some of our group while we arranged our duffel and back packs to start hiking to Phakding. I also used the opportunity to purchase some data.
Flowers
Flowers
The hike to Phakding was a gentle introduction to Everest. Mostly downhill with winding pathways. Despite no sleep, the mood was festive and cameras were quickly out with poses galore. We crossed many bridges and I particularly paid attention to the blooming spring flowers displaying a kaleidoscope of colours.
We hiked 8 km in 3 hours 50 mins climbing 238m.
BACK: KATHMANDU
