We rested the day after climbing Mont Ventoux and spent time in the beautiful town of Annecy with its magnificent lake and scenic surrounding mountain range. Annecy on the south eastern part of France is also close to the Swiss border and a definitive place to place on ones itinerary with it’s old town with cobbled streets, winding canals, quaint cafes and colourful houses.
Day 10: Col du Telegraphe, Col du Galibier and L’Alpe d’Huez
It was a sunny day with a cool breeze as we drove to the beautiful scenic snow capped mountains of the French Alps. It took us two hours to get to the foothills of Col de Telegraphe to a town called Jean St Marianne 15kms away from the start of the climb. Time was wasted and frustration mounted as our two cars ended up in different towns. A small blip on an otherwise synchronised trip. Fortuitously, this distraction took our minds away from the challenge awaiting us. In our haste to start riding, we each left something behind like a helment or gloves so we had to return. I left my glasses in the hotel but had to ride without one especially during tricky technical descents when watering eyes blurs ones vision.
Lake Annecy
Mirth and laughter abounded as we warmed our legs during the first 15kms. We started our ride around 11am coming to terms with European cycle times. The sun is not as profound a presence as an ‘African’ sun making the late start bizarre but understandable. Mining appeared to be a key industry in some of the towns and many cliffs had a strong metallic looks indicating iron or some other metal in the region.
French Alps
The climb up Col De Telegraphe was “gentle” as we knew we had to save our legs for the other two climbs. We had no idea how long any of the climbs were. For some inexplicable reason we did not research this. Our strongest rider, Zahid, was cruising at the back so we took his cue and “saving legs” was our mantra during the first 12km climb. A helicopter hovered above, picking up and dropping off logs, providing some welcomed distraction. As we ascended, the scenery was magnificent. Linda and Sherine, our two support vehicle drivers, took pictures.
Zahid on Col du Telegraph
Miriam on Col du Telegraph
The summit was cold and we quickly put on some more cycling gear. My shoulders were excruciatingly painful and Linda administered some treatment, which relieved some of the pain. After some dates, bananas and coke, we started the descent. It was an icy cold affair as our heart rates dropped, energy output was minimal, sweat cooled and the temperature dropped. We waited at the bottom as Riaz had seen an outfit for his daughter. It gave us time to warm up, stretch and relax.
Arshad motoring up Cold du Galabier
We started the slow ascent of Col du Galibier passing beautiful ski villages with signs indicating that the road would be closed on 4th July due to the imminent tour. As we ascended, the snow-capped portion of the mountain came closer and closer until we were riding with snow on either side of the road. The climb was long and tough and one had to grind away as the summit took a long time in coming. Zunaid was battling and Linda looked very strong. It was freezing cold as we reached the summit and we quickly huddled in the support vehicles. It was time to refuel with baguettes and tuna. This was chased down with Coke Zero. Any drink would have done. Ascending requires an enormous amount of fluid and I was always thirsty.
Fazel on Col du Galibier
We hastily took some wonderful photographs and started the lengthier descent to the foothills of L’Alpe d’Huez. Several people chose the support vehicles so Owen, Riaz, Arshad, Zahid and I raced down. It was a pleasant descent as we came across flowing streams, a large waterfall and a lush green mountainside. We peeled off some clothing and had a wonderful time racing downhill. The tunnels provided much fun as Owen enjoyed screaming and racing at full throttle.
Owen
We stopped several kilometers before the foothills of L’Alpe d’Huez where we refreshed and arranged our clothing for the summit. The others also joined in as we left one car behind. The final summit beckoned.
Signpost on each of the 21 Hairpin Bends
Our ride to the foothills was festive as we warmed our legs by spinning using low gears not knowing what to expect. We heard about the 21 hairpin bends and that the first 2km was extremely tough. I think we found the entire 21km tough with no respite especially coming at the end of a tough cycling day. As usual Zahid, Riaz and Arshad powered ahead. Linda and I were in the middle section and Owen, Miriam and Zunaid brought in the rear.
Riaz climbing L’Alpe d’Huez
Often, we would find Sherine on the side clicking away as we rode. She deserved special mention for uncomplainingly supporting us. We voted her man (person) of the match (tour).
Sherine, support vehicle driver, photographer and most passionate fan
Each hairpin bend kicked into a 360-degree turn and the elevation increased considerably. Counting off each hairpin was an exercise in absolute torture: 21, 20, 19. …. And, after a while you forget about them only to be reminded as the signs pop up 13, 12, 11 … The scenery was beautiful and I imagined what skiing must be like during winter. Healthy cream-coloured cows with their dangling bells echoing through the valley grazed peacefully showing no concern for fools making the ascent. Occasionally a rider would pass or we would pass other riders.
Zunaid steadily climbing
I was thirsty and down to very little liquids. I needed more water and noticed water bottles on the side of the road left by other riders. These were tantalizing and many a time I seriously considered jumping off and gulping the water down. We rode past a few deserted ski villages and the pain increased. It got tougher and tougher and the cold started seeping into our bones. The end never seemed near as we climbed hairpin after hairpin. I could see Arshad struggling and Linda following steadily. I alternated between standing (27) and riding seated (28) and gradually made progress. Oh and how glad am I that I changed my cassette to a 28:11. It saved my knees and significantly reduced the lactic buildup in my old legs. I would have died with any lower ratio.
Raven perplexed
As I came to what looked like the summit, I saw the kombi parked next to a Spar but no Owie. The others were trying to warm-up while shoveling much needed food/drinks down their throats. Zunaid had jumped into the kombi earlier so he helped me load my bike. It is the second time I swore – f@&$ing L’Alpe d’Huez, and, I was tempted to fling my bike way down into the valley like a rock star thrashing his electric guitar after a stunning performance. Linda bought some cold drinks, which we devoured gluttonously. We were cold and huddled together whilst driving down to pick up Owen and Miriam.
Zunaid, Linda, Arshad, Riaz, Miriam, Zahid, Fazel & Owen
We took some pictures and Riaz managed to get us, including our bikes, into the kombi. The man has a wonderful gift for packing. I had earlier mentally prepared myself to ride back to the car. We were soon warm, chatting and sharing war stories. I commented that this moment will never recur i.e., all of us in the kombi together packed like sardines driving down the iconic L’Alpe d’Huez.
We all agreed that it was the toughest but best ride we had ever done. Sad to say we had to end the ride with MacDonald’s Fish O’Fillet again – we just did not have another good option so late in the evening. We finished riding around 8pm and by the time we hit Grenoble, the closest proper town, it was around 10pm. The sun has still not set. I am further sad to say that we climbed Mt Ventoux fueled by McDonalds. All our nutrition plans were thrown out of the window for the toughest rides we had ever done. Note to self – next time bring own chef.
Mission accomplished
On reaching our hotel, we each had a shower and hit the sack – tired, blissfully happy and in many ways complete. Our cycling pilgrimage accomplished. Our last ride is really something to savor and cherish – it will be very very hard to beat.
Beautiful torture is what I tweeted when referring to this ride. Our toughest but best ride ever as we cycled 111kms, climbing 3800 meters and conquering Col de Telegraphe (12km), Col de Galibier (18km) and L’Alpe d’Huez (21km). We each have a deeper sense of appreciation of what the elite riders go through and will fondly relate to their pain when the Tour starts.
In total, we cycled over 720kms, climbed more than 7000 meters, visited 4 countries and accumulated memories to last a lifetime.
