The Stabus Rhino peloton team comprising Riaz “Modster” Paruk (captain), Owen “Cutesee” Coetzee, Miriam “Momster” Desai and Fazel “Charles” Mayet, and the Faitz Rhino Peloton team comprising Arshad “Cherry“ Tayob (Captain), Zahid “Brandster” Moola, Ismail ”Isco” Ebrahim and Zunaid “Gangster“ Tayob departed for the not so warm island town of London on 16th June 2013. Their aim was to complete the Hotchillee London to Paris Tour followed by some climbing in the French Alps (Mont Ventoux and Col du Telegraph, Col du Galabier and L’Alpe d’Huez). In accomplishing this feat, the team agreed to raise funds for Rhinos who are being decimated by poaches for their horns.
Day 1: London
The flight was uneventful and meals were edible. Sleep came and ‘uncame’ in sequential spurts as passengers coughed, fidgeted, talked or inevitably due to sleeping while effectively sitting. I managed to watch a sitcom, Modern Family, and, a beautiful Richard Attenborough documentary on natural history filming techniques.
Passport control and collecting our bikes was a doddle, although Owen’s bike did not arrive until the next day (another good reason for arriving a few days early). Some spent the day visiting London town and shopping whilst others visited family.
The Shoppers
Day 2: London
A beautiful partly cloudy day with spattering of sunshine greeted us as we rode from our Hotel in Surbiton through Hampden Court ending with a loop in Richmond Park prior to returning. Linda, our masseur, invited her friend an ex South African called Sue who guided us on a scenic 30km ride. We took some pictures seeing a very large herd of reindeer in the park. The roads were busy but the park offered us an opportunity for some sprints to fully check both legs and bikes. We stopped at a Starbucks outlet in Richmond where we enjoyed a late breakfast comprising cappuccino with some sandwiches. We visited Sigma Sports, a local cycle shop, to buy last minute items taking advantage of a bigger product variety.
Owen in Richmond Park with Reindeers in the background
Day 3: London
A beautiful warm humid day greeted us as we rode via a different route to Richmond Park. It gave Owen a chance to loosen his legs after his bike was delivered. Riaz partnered him whilst the rest of us gently cycled with the odd 30 second burst. Isco, Zahid, and Zunaid decided not to cycle. Rest was their choice but it was a poor excuse to go shopping, again. A third visit to the Ferrari outlet and rumor has it that they bought most of the stock (gifts for members back home we hoped).
We headed to Sigma Sports again where I had an opportunity to check out my chain that triggered in low gear when I coasted. They aligned my derailleur and tightened my wheel hub but the chain issue still remained. It did not affect riding so I hoped for the best given the rather expensive replacement wheels on offer. Riaz and Miriam had a good shopping spree (check out her helmet) whilst the rest of us headed to the hotel so that Linda could start the massages. Arshad arranged a meeting room where Linda setup her table and everyone managed to get around 20-30min massages. In between we showered, rested, went for a bite, had some tea, rested, chatted and nervously prepared for the big ride.
Day 4: Calais
The morning was hectic. Most of us slept late and barely managed 4 hours sleep. Zahid had a nightmare – flashback of our disastrous Double Century attempt, and had the audacity to even bring it up. He was fined by the Captain. Packing and getting our luggage from our rooms to our taxi required multiple trips. The taxi came late but we were all on time. After some coffee and muffins, pictures and customary banter, Group 4 started. Hoosein Karjieker joined the team after purchasing a very late entry.
Miriam, Riaz, Zahid, Isco, Owen, Fazel, Hoosein, Zunaid & Arshad
Heading southwest from Kingston took us through several towns often stopping at robots until we hit the countryside. The race was well organized, in fact, too organized. We had to stay in twos and the ride captain determined the pace. If you were towards the back, you often got caught in the waves of slowing, stopping, accelerating and breaking. We decided to stay in front which offered a much smoother ride.
Towns with names like Smythe, Newchurch, Woodchurch and many I cannot remember quickly flew past. Fields of yellow flowers and forests of overhanging trees came into view. We rode past well-fed and rotund sheep. I almost felt that Robin Hood and his merry men would jump into our path and demand our carbon and lycras. This being the new currency.
Many times, especially when my mind wandered into the fields, I could swear I saw “Tess” cutting a sad and lonely figure. I am sure I heard Hobbits loudly whispering near their rabbit hole homes. And, when the rain came, it dawned on me why the literary greats created such phenomenal characters and settings. Surrounded with that beauty engulfed by the continuous falling rain, one has sufficient time to imagine and conjure up all sorts of creative works.
Back to the peloton which slowly and assuredly charted its course. I was certain the minute I started that I was going to finish – not an ounce of doubt entered my mind. Not even even death would stop me. The days ride itself was mostly downhill with the odd climb as we headed towards the costs. One climb of 3kms reached a maximum gradient of 18 degrees and warmed our legs and lungs. Arshad had earlier commented, “mountains are therapeutic” lamenting the lack of them. Riaz mentioned that his legs were getting “lazy” and I even opined that my heart rate was only 100. The climb changed that. The ride reminded me of the fast and furious ride from Mooi River to PMB during last year’s Tour de Durban.
Riaz, Owen and Arshad are ‘chatter boxes’ – talking to all and sundry. Miriam, Isco, Zahid and I, and, to some extent Zunaid prefer more solitude – contemplation and riding within ourselves. Riaz was chatting to a Spanish rider and for what seemed like a very long time discussed the intricacies of German soccer reminiscing about Cologne FC and various German greats. Shortly thereafter Riaz lost concentration and almost brought himself and several others down. His strong bicycling and core skills averted a sure disaster.
Owen had his own challenges as he tried to butt into the peloton from deep. After being berated by a woman called Lucy, Owen responded, “I was previously disadvantaged so please don’t take this little privilege I have. I flew a long way and want to enjoy this”. Contrastingly, another English women remarked to Owen, “your cycling kits hug every part of your team member’s bodies. When I am behind, it is so hypnotizing”. To which Owen retorted, “is it only mines?” Retelling this brought howls of laughter from our team with Sherine in full earshot.
We successfully completed stage 1 – 163km, 6hrs and 16mins, averaging 26km/hr with the highest gradient being 18%. Morale was high.
The ride across the channel with our bus loaded onto a train seemed to take ages as most of dozed off. It took even longer to get to our hotels in Calais. Cold, hungry but elated we rushed to our rooms for a hot shower followed by a meal. I was ravenous eating Zunaid’s unwanted apple pie.
My room had a beautiful view of the harbor and Calais came across as a sleepy, quiet and not so little town.
Day 5: Amiens
France is yet to understand the value of hot porridge, oats in particular, for breakfast. Nevertheless, we ate a wholesome continental breakfast and waited for our bus to collect us. I managed to check my bike out with Bob, one of the excellent race mechanics. He really knew his stuff. It appears that my freewheel bearings have gone and need to be replaced. I could consider replacing the hub. However, the wheel itself is fine.
It was cold and the sky was pregnant with rain. We started off at blistering pace and I was a little worried about keeping up. Isco decided to drop down and rode with group 5. Riaz and Arshad were keen to jump to group 3 for the next day’s ride but Zahid, Miriam, Owen and I were comfortable in Group 4.
The northern French countryside is picturesque containing field upon field of barley, wheat, potato and spinach plantations across rolling hills. Wild, radiant red poppies and an unknown yellow variety often guarded the plantations. We rode through many farms, on roads that at times were narrow enough for just one car. It reminded us so much of Le Tour. Occasionally, we came across portly cows and sheep. In towns we were greeted by school kids and retired people hanging from the doorways and windows.
The peloton settled into a pattern with riders picking their spots. Riaz, Arshad and Owen appear frustrated at the orderly and restrictive nature causing some consternation among a few riders. Lucy, who I mentioned earlier, referred to us as those ‘dangerous riders’. She muttered her concern to me and expressed that the ‘entire peloton’ feels the same. Later on I found her cutting in coming in from the opposite side of the road. She also had a run in with Arshad who had stepped out of the peloton to eat a chocolate. She berated him and he would have none of it responding in his best acerbic style.
Riaz and Owen were very quiet. In fact, the peloton as a whole was more subdued with tiredness and exhaustion creeping in. Very little banter with several riders touchy. Lunch was in a big hall with rows and rows of tables and a large baguette was on offer with a delicious apple kind of pastry. I managed to fit in a massage for my very sore shoulders that helped remarkably with the second part of the ride.
There was a period where I was the last one in the peloton after getting caught with a few slow climbers and I struggled to catch up. It was hard moving up the peloton given the very structured 2 by 2 formation. Nevertheless, it was not bad as I chatted with the ride marshal and had a wonderful time enjoying the scenery.
Arshad, whose proud record of not having a puncture during a race, had an unfortunate puncture and had to endure the ignominy of being driven to our lunch stop missing 6 precious kilometers. He small face told a voluminous story. He expressed that he needs to ride a bit more to catch-up. We finished the 173km stage 2 successfully in 7 hours and 10 minutes at an average speed of 25km per hour. A tough but solid day in the saddle.
Dinners have been poor. We had some dry pasta with our own tinned tuna for much needed protein. Dry chicken was available so a few of us ate it with dry pasta. My throat is still complaining.
Day 6: Paris
“Momster” aka Miriam and “Cutesee” aka Owen and I rode in group 4 whilst Zahid, Riaz, Arshad and Zunaid rode in group 3 after several of us missed our bus. Isco continued to ride in group 5. The boys in group 3 rode strong and largely kept their own but struggled towards the end. Momster was awesome as she spent long periods upfront and rode like a demon showing little weakness. The absence of hubby Riaz spurred her on knowing that he was not there to support her.
Fazel, Miriam and Owen
The pace was fast with ongoing rolling hills and strong winds. This took a lot out of us especially those not in the front of the peloton as we had to race to catch-up and break when the peloton slowed. We arrived in the outskirts of Paris in the afternoon after battling strong headwinds, rain and strenuous climbs. Sitting upfront in the beginning and towards the latter part of the ride before lunch was manageable. However, when we stopped to allow the group ahead to climb the king of the mountains section, my body cooled and I struggled to get momentum to climb the torturous hill. I ended up towards the rear of the peloton. It was a hard and tough struggle keeping up. It took a lot out of me and I had to dig deep.
The day went down as a great training ride. Lunch came late in the afternoon after we completed 120kms. It was very cold as our sweat cooled us. A baguette with tuna and an apple pie was our lunch as we all set in the gymnasium resting and exchanging war stories. Riaz invited Lucy into one of our team pictures and it was the last time we heard her.
All the groups (1-6) combined as one for the last 40kms into Paris. It was slow but festive as the rain continued unabated. About 10km outside of Paris, the mercurial sun surfaced as victory was certain. The Rhino Peloton team, also representing the New Horizon club, threw off their rain jackets and the Club’s magnificent orange cycling gear was a befitting tribute to the courageous riders from South Africa. We knew we carried the dreams of many. For a brief, fleeting moment Avenue des Champs-Élysées was ours as 450 riders from many countries converged riding towards Arc de Triomf in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, triumphant. Cab drivers and motorcyclists created a guard of honour blowing their whistles as cameras flashed. Parent’s pointed for their kids to witness the glory of cycling. The iconic cobblestones made riding a tad tougher and we silently saluted all those riders for the last 99 years that have raced on these very same cobblestones. We were in seventh heaven and no words can describe the feelings and thoughts welled inside of us – it was a moment to cherish forever.
Riding into that cauldron was riveting as the crowds lined the streets and you knew that you were part of a very special once in a lifetime experience. The rolling road closures ensured that we travelled all the way to the Arc de Triomf circling it and screaming in delight at our achievement. We rode to a park and dismounted hugging each other and taking pictures to mark the occasion. What a feeling.
After some speeches, corking of champagne, collecting our special medals and basking in general reverie we packed our bikes and headed by bus to our hotel for a well deserved shower.
The Hotel Pullman was also the venue of our dinner that evening. The rooms were very spacious according to European standards – king size bed, 2 bathrooms, a lounge and a good view from the 8th floor. A fitting ending for such a challenge. The room also had its own espresso machine and other useful stuff to create that special ambience.
The celebratory dinner was a fantastic ending after a tough few days. I managed to negotiate for some protein (fish) and the meal was excellent. We drank lots of liquids including some delicious grape fruit juice. We took pictures and reveled in several repeated war stories. It was a delightful evening with deepened friendships solidified through another exciting experience. We slept soundly dreaming about that accomplished and that still to come.
